Week 1 - Camino De Santiago

Week 1 on the Camino de Santiago, Camino Francés

Sunday, May 25, 2025

This handsome guy brought me to the airport. He dropped me off so I could check my bag while he parked. As I was checking in, the airline employee asked about my travels so I explained to her about the Camino. After I was all checked in, I told her that I needed to wait for my son to park and we would say our goodbyes. She asked if I would like for him to accompany me to the gate. She said that she could issue him special gate access since this was a special occasion. My Camino was already starting off with people’s good graces and I haven’t even left Omaha. 

Day 1 - Tuesday, May 27, 2025 

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France to Roncesvalles, Spain

Yesterday I arrived in Paris and took two subway trains to a train station inside Paris. Then bought 2 train tickets to get me to the city of Bayonne. 

I decided to get a hotel in Boyonne for the night and head to the starting point at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPDP) in the morning. My app said that there was a 6:35 am train to SJPDP. I did not sleep much or well on the airplane and my night in Bayonne was not much better. Too many "what ifs" chasing each other around in my head. I had a headache and at one point I thought I might throw up. At 1:20 am, I texted my son: “I’m scared. I don’t know what I am doing. I screwed up by getting the smaller backpack then deciding to bring a sleeping bag last minute. I’m feeling like I’ve failed before I’ve even begun.” I am not starting off this adventure with all the confidence in the world. As a matter of fact, it’s the complete opposite. I was scared to death but not doing this was not an option. How does the saying go? “Courage is not the absence of fear but the triumph over it”. 

Today the alarm sounded at 5:00 am. The plan was to get to the train station by 6:00 to get a ticket for the 6:35. When I was crossing the parking lot I noticed a bus with SJPDP on its marque and was about to leave. I ran over and asked if I could buy a ticket. The agent told me to put my backpack underneath and don’t worry about the ticket, “the ticket it’s ok”. In other words, he let me ride for free. Good start to my Camino. I managed to sleep a little on the bus and arrived at SJPDP about 7:30 am, just as the Official Pilgrim’s Office was opening. Got my official documentation and became a pilgrim.

I am officially a pilgrim!

I had heard that the first day was difficult but I was overly confident. About 85% of it is all up the side of mountains. It is not until the last 90 minutes do you start to descend. Two bad nights of sleep and still a little queezy in the stomach … I started off not at 100%. I did not have any breakfast. I brought along a couple of protein bars and planned to eat one as soon as my stomach was ready.

What I later realized was that the first day is so intense, being less than 100% makes it brutal. I became dehydrated and no amount of water would quench my thirst. I had to take some breaks along the way to regain my strength. That only helped for awhile, then I was right back to misery. At about the 1/2 way point, I was alone at a fountain filling up my bottle when I started puking. A Spaniard named Guillermo was right behind me as I proceeded to empty all my contents. We became fast friends and finished walking the rest of the way together. I told him that he saw me at my worst when we met so it could only get better.

We got to the first night’s stop, el albergue at Roncesvalles, Spain, and my biggest fear was realized on the first day … no room in the inn. We spoke to a few different people but all indicators were that we would have to keep walking another 5 miles in order to find something. I didn’t have it in me. Guillermo left me resting and watching over our stuff at the door of the albergue, as he went to try and find a solution.

While Guillermo was off trying to save the day, an English girl showed up at the albergue and was told the same thing... no room, you must continue on to the next village. She looked defeated. Guillermo returned with no good news. It was looking like I was somehow going to have to pull another 5 miles out of my exhausted body. Just then a guy from the establishment said that he called the hotel and they had one room for three people, but we had to have three. I remembered the English girl. We found her just as she was starting to head out. Her name is Isabel and had just graduated university ... a Spaniard, a Brit, and an American become roommates for the night. I’m off to bed now. Tomorrow is an easier day with it all being downhill. 

Post script 13/07/25: It turned out that I was actually really sick with some kind of virus. The next week will be hard. I’ll be weak. But I will not quit. 

33,000 steps recorded 

17 miles hiked 

10 hours 

Normal Day with Jazzercise

Day 1 St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

Day 2 - Wednesday, May 28, 2025 Roncesvalles to Zubiri 

We didn’t set alarm clocks this morning, we didn’t have any set time that we wanted to leave so it was a really relaxed morning. Guillermo made some calls and got us beds in an albergue. It was a good move because I think that he found the last three beds in the village. It was nice not having the stress of not having a place to sleep. We had breakfast in the hotel then hit the trail. It was mostly all downhill. Basically we were going down the other side of the mountain that we had climbed yesterday.

The quintessential photo op at Roncesvalles.

I felt a little better but definitely not 100%. I’m still dehydrated so I’m drinking a lot of Aquarius (Spain’s version of Gatorade). There were a handful of villages on this stage and that made it seem easier. We would stop and get an Aquarius and relax a little, then take off again. Guillermo was being really protective and regularly checking in with me and insisting that we take breaks. Isabel is young, but not used to the physical intensity, so she was fine with the frequent stops. Yesterday was hard because it was all day in the mountains with no civilization and no coverage from the sun. Today, all in all, was a nice day, but pretty uneventful.

The three of us hiked together the entire day and are staying together in the albergue. Isabel has decided that she is going to do a short day tomorrow, so Guillermo and I will be heading to Pamplona alone. I have not been taking any photos. I am just realizing now that I should be taking them. It’s been pretty brutal 48 hours and my mind has just been on putting the next step forward. 

29,000 steps recorded 

15 miles hiked 

7 hours

blister count: 1 (threaded it overnight)

Day 2 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Day 3 - Thursday, May 29, 2025

Zubiri to Pamplona

It was a fairly easy day. I can feel my body regaining its strength, although climbs still take it out of me. It’s as if my main tank is getting full but the reserve tank is still empty so when I need that extra power to climb, it’s a genuine struggle. The trail was pleasant. Mostly canopied by trees or large shrubs. Until we got closer to Pamplona, then it opened up to full sun and a dry rocky path. 

We said goodbye to Isabel today. She wanted to do a short day so we accompanied her to a quaint albergue run by nuns. It’s a free will donation, they have a family dinner, and group prayer in the evening. It looked lovely and I am looking forward to staying in similar ones along my Camino. 

Guillermo and I finished off the last 2-1/2 hours to Pamplona together where we are staying in an old church built in 1782 and has been converted into an albergue. It is really cool. It’s loud to sleep in. Guillermo called it a concert of snoring. The vaulted stone ceiling amplify the acoustics. But when in my life can I ever again say I slept in an old church with 100+ strangers?

After checking in, showers, doing laundry, and a little nap Guillermo and I walked around the old city of Pamplona and got dinner. We have talked a lot and I really appreciate is friendship. He’s an amazingly kind and caring person, one of those Camino angels that you meet along the way. We part ways in the morning. He has to return to work in Valencia. His plan was always to just walk the three days. 

View from my bed

Typical bar in Pamplona

Pinchos de Navarra

The famous city hall building of Pamplona. The Running of the Bulls takes place in front of it.

So tomorrow I head out again alone. But I learned something from Isabel today. She showed me how beautiful it can be to believe that I do not have anything to prove to anyone, including myself. That it is ok to not follow the set schedule and say “I’m done for the day, I’m going to stay here and just relax, let my body heal.”

So tonight I took the first step in changing my “go big or go home” attitude and book a bed in a village a couple of hours before the scheduled end. Tomorrow is suppose to be hot, full sun, no shade. Sounds like a perfect day to say “I’m done for the day.” I have not started to journal yet so I plan to do that in the afternoon. 

32,292 steps recorded

14 miles hiked

6 hours hiked

Day 3 Zubiri to Pamplona

Day 4 - Friday, May 30, 2025

Pamplona to Uterga (short day)

Today started off really well. Guillermo treated me to breakfast and we then said our goodbyes. Today’s route is supposed to be rough … nothing like the first day, but it has this kick-butt mountain called “Alto de Perdón, the Mount of Forgiveness” that has a steep grade and mostly loose gravel which is not pleasant at all to climb on … and by not pleasant I mean it actually really sucks. 

But the parts that did not involve ascending and descending “El Perdón” were quite pleasant. 

Half way up, there is the nice little village of Zariquiegui, that gives pilgrims a chance to rest. It has a cute little church that was open with a volunteer ready to help you. 

I love this photo. A weary pilgrim at the altar. 

I spent some time of reflection inside then took a break in the shade of its stone wall, downed a couple of bananas, which are very important on this adventure, and chatted with the volunteer. 

This one is for all of my Spanish IV students who have learned about los hitos. 

The second part of the climb was more intense. At the top is the famous iron sculptures with the inscription Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas — “where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars.” 

The sculpture represents the timeline of pilgrims: from the very first back in the medieval period to the last one representing the twentieth century. I was familiar with the sculpture but didn’t know exactly where it was, so it was a nice surprise when I crested the mountain and saw it. It put a big smile on my face and made me think of all my students who have studied it. 

Separate from the pilgrimage, the site has a more somber history. It is the site where 92 people were massacred during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) by the army of the monarchy led by Francisco Franco. There are a couple of plaques and a monument in remembrance and which is why it is called “Mount of Forgiveness”.

The descent from “El Perdón” was trickier than the ascent. Large loose rocks the entire way down make every step dangerous. It is an ankle breaker of a path. Thanks to all my time spent in the mountains of the Pyrenees, I had my technique perfected and made good time. 

I arrived at the village where I am staying the night at 12:45, which was way too early for me to stop. Unfortunately, I couldn’t keep going because I had a non-refundable reservation and the end-stage was fully booked.

My “room” for the night

 I had to wait outside until 1:00 when the albergue opened. I was the first pilgrim to check in so I showered and washed my clothes with hot water! But then it was an afternoon of nothing to do. 

Hats off to those of you whose idea of a vacation is sitting around doing nothing with a book in hand. I was going crazy. I tried to “relax” but that made me more restless. I kept telling myself it was a waste of time and I should be on the trail making distance. I was annoyed with myself for going against my instinct. I decided that as a consequence to stopping too early today, I would make up the distance that I should have finished today plus tomorrow’s full stage. And to make sure I kept to it, I reserved a bed in Estella (Day 5’s end point.) It took me a while to find a bed … once again everything was booked. This is not how I wanted my Camino experience to go. I wanted to stop whenever I wanted and get a bed for the night. I did not want to be tied to a schedule. But unless things start to thin out, I don’t see that happening. 

The day I left SJPDP so did several tour buses full of organized tour groups from Korea. In addition, several Spanish secondary schools were having their end-of-the-school-year trip. They started out of Roncesvalles. Between the two situations, they had booked up almost all of the accommodations. My hope is that the students will only walk for a few days so that will free up the later albergues. Separating myself from the Korean tour groups might prove to be more challenging.

23,070 steps recorded 

11 miles hiked

5 hours hiked

Blister count: 1 with another on its way

Day 5 - Saturday, May 31, 2025

Uterga to Estella (long day)

Today was my first full day of being totally on my own. I got an earlier start, 7:00 am. My goal is between 5:00-6:00 am but the price of the albergue was breakfast included and I had to wait for it to be served. It was a hot walk. I had no idea of the temp nor did I want to know. I figured that my mental motivation would be better without knowing. But I did check once I arrived at my destination … 88°! I’m glad that I didn’t know!!!

Every day presents its own physical challenges. By looking just at the elevation of the stage, one would think, “easy day.” But it does not have to be a mountain to kick your butt, if the incline is steep enough and in this heat, it’s a killer. That was today. You can tell by my heart monitor that it kicked butt. 

I am being very very careful about staying hydrated. I drink two Aquarius whenever I take a break, and I drink it in the evenings. I have yet to have a café con leche, vino tinto, or a tinto de verano. If you know me well enough, you realize what a major change that is. Honesty, they don’t even sound good to me. Not to mention, all of them can dehydrate so I’m sticking with the Aquarius. 

Here are some of the landscapes that I passed through today:

And some of the villages:

My 7:00 am start

Sculpture of Saint James in the village Puente de la Reina

At one point I was walking on the actual authentic original (yes, I know … I’m being redundant, for emphasis) ROMAN ROAD. I found it so amazing to be walking on it. It was definitely bumpy, I cannot imagine riding in any kind of carriage or wagon over it. 

I had the opportunity to stop in more churches today. The churches of Spain are amazing. Big cathedrals or small chapels, it doesn't matter. They all offer such a peaceful place to reflect and rest. I have always sought them out in times when I needed comfort, stillness, or just that private time with God.

And then there was this:

a very random table set up in the middle of nowhere on the trail. A sign before it said “For Pilgrims - Please rest and take what you need.”

By the way, in case you are wondering about some of my selfies, I am wearing a long-sleeved sun hoodie instead of a wide brimmed hat like most pilgrims wear. I love it. I remind myself of a Jawa from Star Wars. I thought that my body would take awhile to acclimate to wearing long-sleeves in the heat but it adjusted right away. I have seen pilgrims with major sun burns and others with skin so tanned it’s going to look like leather by the end. I have also been wearing hiking pants instead of shorts. I have often considered converting them to shorts but then I find myself walking through a thistle patch and grateful to have them. 

I did realize something very important today, I enjoy solo walking and being alone. I like hitting my own stride and not having to downshift to match someone else. (Another salute to those summers spent hiking the Pyrenees.) Maybe I’ll end up a part of a Camino family in the upcoming days, but I’m not forcing it. 

Well, I’ve eaten my Pilgrim’s Dinner at a restaurant in Estella, Navarra. 

Streets of Estella, Navarra

Estella, Navarra - Spain

I am loaded up on my protein for tomorrow. (Restaurants along the Camino offer a special meal to pilgrims.) Now it’s time to head back to my awesome albergue for the night. 

Here are some photos of my room. 

There are 18 beds in this room, each bed is its own little capsule. Each bed has its own keyed locker for backpacks, and inside each capsule is a lamp, outlet, and a small lock box. 

An extra special service… laundry! 

Washed AND DRIED! They do it for you and deliver it to your capsule for 7€. It’s a bit of a splurge. Normally I have to hand wash my clothes everyday and line dry them. Then I safety pin items to my backpack the next day that might still be damp. Today’s clothes were disgusting, soaked with sweat. They needed more than handwashing! 

I hope to get on the trail really early tomorrow to make it to my next stopping point by 1:00 pm. It will be Sunday and the town has a special Pilgrim’s Mass at 1:00 pm. 

38,017 steps recorded 

19 miles hiked

7.5 hours hiked

Blister count: 0 active, 1 healing over

Day 6 - Sunday, June 1, 2025

Estella to Los Arcos

6:10 am start

A free fountain outside a winery ... yes, it's wine!

Esparragos fields

In Spain, esparragos plants are covered in order to create white esparragos.

The trail goes through thickets of thistles ... so grateful to be wearing pants.

Pilgrims' Mass

31,979 steps recorded 

15 miles hiked

5.5 hours hiked

Blister count: 0 active

Day 7 - Monday, June 2, 2025

Los Arcos to Logroño

First rainy day. Thunderstorms, lightening, and downpours … yet we walk. 

34,884 steps recorded 

17 miles hiked

8.5 hours hiked

Blister count: 0 active

End of Week